Ready, steady, cook!

Anyone who has attempted one of Jamie Olivers’ 15 Minute Meals will understand the value of a well-designed kitchen layout.  Everything from your cooking ingredients, favourite knife and trusty wooden spoon should all be at hand and ready to go.

In order to achieve this, kitchen designers apply what is known as the Kitchen Work Triangle.

The idea is that your cooker, sink, and fridge-freezer should all be positioned to form a triangle.  The smaller the triangle the more efficient the use of space.

“But all rooms are different?”

The Kitchen Work Triangle rules can be applied to most kitchen shapes, but the idea is based around 5 designs:

• The L Shaped kitchen
• The Galley kitchen
• The U Shaped kitchen
• The Single Wall kitchen
• The Island kitchen

So lets take a look at how this would work in practice. We’ve drawn up an example of each kitchen, added the appliances, and then drawn a red triangle to illustrate the point.

The L Shaped Kitchen

The Galley Kitchen

The U Shaped Kitchen

The Single Wall Kitchen

The Island Kitchen

Other considerations:

• Ideally the triangle should not be more than 7 metres in total, and also must not be less than 3.6m in total,  – if the space is shorter than this, there will be little room for food preparation in between the appliances.  It is also good practice to leave at least 30cm of work surface each side of a cooker to allow for preparation and setting down pans etc.
• The larger kitchens and subsequently the larger your triangle is, the more steps between the appliances, and therefore the more work and effort is needed. If you do have a big kitchen, why not have a cooking area and sitting area, therefore breaking up the space and keeping within the perameters of the work triangle
• When you start producing a kitchen design, it is easier to start with the sink, as this is often kept in a fixed position, which is normally by the window. Lets be honest, to most of us washing up is a chore and it’s worth making it as pleasant as possible and fitting the sink under a window gives you something to look out to but also means you are working in natural light. It is also worth noting that most houses are designed with the plumbing under the window, making installation easier and costs down.
• Appliance like dishwashers should be kept by the sink, microwaves by the cooker, fridges by freezers etc. Splitting your kitchen into sub-zones means a more efficient kitchen.
• Try not to place the triangle in high levels of traffic flow, you’ll know what we mean when you’re making your sunday roast

All these rules will depend on the shape and size of your room, and where your doors and windows are.  In a modern home, an architect would consider these rules in the house plan, but in older homes, you will have to design your kitchen around the existing space.

As we say to all of our customers, everyone is different and every layout is different, and therefore each space needs to be individual thought out and considered. A good kitchen should be well fitted and look the part, an excellent kitchen should not only do that, but also work with its surroundings and make cooking and being in it a pleasure.

Why not try out the work triangle principles on  your current kitchen.

At MD Build, we supply and fit kitchens all around Chester and the surrounding areas. We can help you through the design and planning of your new kitchen, as well as supplying (from a wide variety of suppliers) and installing your kitchen.  We can also project manage the other trades that you may need such as an electrician or gas engineer. If you would like to arrange an appointment, please contact Sarah and Mark on 01244 962 250. Click here for information on the kitchen services we provide.

At MD Build, we love our Tormek T-7. Since we purchased one of these from Axminster late last year, we have been blown away by its ease of use and excellent results.

As a Joinery company based in Chester, having sharp chisels and plane irons is a must. We use these tools on a daily basis, whether it being for cutting in hinges for doors, installing locks,  joining wood, or planning, we have to make sure they are all in top form for each job we undertake.

Up until purchase point, our preferred method was with a honing guide and wetstone. Now I’m not saying that there is anything wrong with this method, especially if you don’t use tools on a daily basis, but for us it felt that we were spending more time sharpening than actually chiselling. As with the nature of working on site goes, especially with  carrying tools around on a daily basis, they do tend to take more abuse than they would if they were working in a workshop all day. Accidently hitting a nail which shouldn’t be there could mean ½ hours of grinding away to achieve a good honed edge again.

So this is where the Tormek T-7 comes in. I can now sharpen a set of 6 chisels from dull to sharp in about 15 minutes. I when I say sharp, I mean sharp. So sharp in fact that by gracing the chisels on the back of your arm, these things can cut hair….. I can now see why Tormek include a pack of plasters with the kit!

The basic premise of the Tormek is 1 large waterstone sharpens your tool in 2 stages, firstly to a course 250 gritt for initial grinding, then to a 1000 grit for honing . This is achieved by a double sided stone grader, which when pressed against the wetstone, gives the user the two grit option. After this is completed, the second leather honing wheel is then used  for honing the chisel further.

The beauty about using the Tormek T-7 is the consistency. I sharpen my chisels to a 25 degree primary bevel, and my  plane irons at various angles. This can be repeated time and time again, with no hastle at all. It’s as simple as putting your chosen tool into the jig, setting the angle, and away you go. The supplied jig is easy to use, easy to set up, and the fine adjustment system means uncompromised accuracy every time.

 “If I had eight hours to chop down a tree, I’d spend six sharpening my axe.”

Abraham Lincoln

There is no need to worry about overheating your tool either, as the whole stone runs in a waterbath, which again is easy to fill up, and has an extension if needed for catching every last drop of excess water if you choose to sharpen larger tools.  The magnet at the bottom of the trough is also a well thought out addition, which catches swarf.

To put it bluntly (sorry, had to get that in somewhere), this is a seriously well made machine, with a heavy duty motor, that is made for one purpose, and one purpose only, to sharpen.  It’s not cheap, at £500 it did make me gulp, but the time I used to spend sharpening my chisels can now be spent on my business and customers jobs.

For more information on the Tormek, check out their website by clicking here

If you’d like to use MD Build & their super sharp chisels, arrange an appointment to discuss your joinery needs by calling us 01244 962 250 or by using our quick contact form, click here

Laminate flooring is amazing! So much so that I spent last weekend taking up the old carpet in our house and putting down a very nice rustic oak ‘v’ groove laminate floor.

At MD Build, we fit a lot of laminate flooring in and around the Chester area, and by doing this, we get to see the pro’s and con’s of different flooring systems.

People are often asking why some laminate floors are better than others, and what we would recommend? So here it is, our mini guide to understanding laminate floors:

What does an AC Rating mean?

When it comes to laminate flooring, it’s all about the AC rating. You should find the AC rating on all packs of laminate floor that you buy. If it’s not on there, our advice is simple, don’t buy it! So what is the AC rating and how can it help you to decide what laminate floor to buy?

Over the years, the popularity and array of laminate flooring led to the European Producers of Laminate Flooring (EPLF) developing a set of standards for grading laminate floor. This system is known as the Abrasion Rating System.

The Abrasion Rating System encompasses a series of tests that include impact resistance, burn resistance, stain resistance, swelling under moisture, and also includes a Tabor Abrasion test.

From this test, the results are collated, and the laminate floor is given an AC rating (which means abrasion class rating), with the higher the number often associated with the better quality laminate floor.

• AC1 – laminate flooring is designed for residential areas with light traffic. Great for bedrooms.
• AC2 – laminate flooring can withstand more traffic than AC1. Suitable for living rooms and dining rooms.
• AC3 – laminate flooring can withstand any type of heavy residential traffic, such as hallways and may also be used in a professional setting with light traffic.
• AC4 – laminate flooring is designed for commercial applications with moderately intense traffic. Ideal for small shops and offices.
• AC5 – laminate flooring is designed for high-traffic commercial areas like department stores, shopping centres, and office buildings. It has a rough finish that can withstand the most abuse.

At MD Build, we would not consider laying or recommending AC1 or AC2 laminate flooring systems. We would also not consider laying flooring with no AC grade, as these types of floor are often cheap alternatives that offer no warranty.

Next level up, and we are now moving into the territory of a quality product. Don’t get us wrong, AC3 can in the right situation be a very good floor, but when you are choosing, consider the price on upgrading to AC4.

With an AC4 floor, plain and simply, you get a higher specified product. An AC4 floor is often a thicker floor, often has some sort of water/ splash protection, and  fits together easier. Now you may be thinking that it’s the fitters problem to make sure it fits together correctly, but we have found there is a definate link between floors that fit together well and those which end up still looking great after 10+ years. Think about it, if a manufacturer has put time, effort, and has developed a locking system that works, they care about what they are producing, and that attention to detail follows through to the quality of the end product.

The flooring I chose to lay at home was an AC4 level floor, and it is what I can only describe as ‘solid’. It was amazing to lay, and I get a 20 year guarantee with it. It was also aqua-lock, which meant although not waterproof, would certainly last in splash areas. It’s a floor that is going to last, and wont need replacing for a long time. For those interested, click here for the flooring i used.

When considering laminate flooring, you need to consider whether you want the bear minimum or want that little bit more protection and subsequently piece of mind. For me the choice is a simple one, and even though laying AC4 in a bedroom or light traffic areas may be slight overkill, I know I’m covered if I spill anything, or accidently drop something on the floor.

At MD Build, we supply and fit a wide range of laminate floors.  If you’re considering laminate floor on your next project, please give us a ring, where we can come out to discuss your options, and provide you with a free, no obligation quotation for your floor.

The building triangle is basically made up of three points;

• Fast (time)
• Quality
• Cheap (cost)

It illustrates that within the confines of any project you plan to undertake, whether it be a new kitchen, a full housing refurbishment, or even something small like putting up some shelving, you can only ever fulfil two of the points within the triangle. For example:

• You can have a fast and cheap job, but your going to sacrifice the quality
• You can have a cheap and quality job, but it isn’t going to be fast
• You can have a quality job done in a fast time, but it’s not going to be cheap

So how can the building triangle help you?

Builders Dilemma:

It can help you in understanding what builders do when they undertake work, and the dilemmas they face within any given project. Most companies wont sacrifice quality under any circumstances so their work will take longer. Others may have a large team working for them, and can put a lot of resources into one job, which although may mean their work is completed quicker, it will cost more to pay the extra labour. On the other side of the scale are the companies who are only interested in completing fast and cheap jobs, the downside however being that the quality of the finished product will be very poor.

Quotations

When you are getting quotations from different builders and trades, and they vary in price, just think about why they differ in price? Is builder ‘A’ using cheaper materials and is planning to be in and out within a day, thereby sacrificing quality, whist builder ‘B’ has priced in for good quality materials that are going to last, and is going take pride in their work?

The building triangle is all about striking a balance, talking to your builder, and discussing your expectations beforehand.

At MD Build, we balance the work triangle to meet your needs whilst never sacrificing on quality. If you would like to discuss your next project with us, please don’t hesitate to give us a call to book an appointment.

An example of this……..

On a recent job, a customer rang us to see if anything could be done about a damp patch that had appeared in her front bedroom. Upon inspection, we found the cause was contributed to a number of factors:

1. Her external mortar had come loose on the other side of the wall to her bedroom
2. Water was overflowing from her gutter, and dripping down into the gap where the mortar was missing
3. The water had soaked into the brickwork and penetrated her plaster, causing the damp patch.

In order to completely remedy the problem, the following work had to be done:

1. The external wall (at the point of entry) need re-pointing
2. The gutters needed to be cleared out, and also repaired.
3. The internal plaster needed to be removed, and then re- plastered (after a drying out period)
4. The room need re- wallpapering because new wallpaper could not be matched up to the original.

The above job is a prime example of needless expense and could have been avoided if (a) the gutters had been cleaned out regularly, and (b) a small section of external brickwork had been re-pointed.

Identifying the problems before they become too costly

The problem is not everyone is aware of what to look for when trying to identify issues that may affect their home. This is why, at MD Build, we have created a guide that we believe may help you in understanding and identifying issues that can occur around your home, and as a result, may save you money.
We have split the guide up into two parts, external and internal.

External

Roof:

Check for any tiles that are out of line, cracked, or missing, including your ridge tiles (the oval tiles right at the top of your roof). This can often be checked just by standing a distance away from your house and looking up, or for a more detailed picture, grab some binoculars. While you’re looking, check your chimney. If the flashing (the grey lead around the base of your chimney) looks loose, or you can see cracks, it would be a good idea to get it checked over, as failure could result in water leaking down your internal chimney breast.
Your roof is your first line of defence against water penetration, and we would advise doing the checks mentioned every 6 months, or after high winds.

Guttering:

Gutters are used to transport water from your roof to the drain below in a controlled manner. Next time it is raining, check to see that water is not overflowing from the top of the gutter, and also that your gutters are not leaking from where sections have been joined together.
If your gutters are leaking when it is not raining, you may have some type of build up or blockage. Debris therefore needs to be removed on a regular basis to stop water overflowing.
We recommend cleaning out your gutters late autumn. And remember, if you do decide to do this yourself, always follow Health and Safety guidelines on safe ladder use.

Walls:

Always check for gaps and cracks in your mortar, which water could penetrate. If mortar has come loose, repoint immediately. If you do see cracks in your walls, it is always a good idea to get them checked out by a specialist engineer. Not all cracks indicate there is a problem, as buildings do move over time, but it is always best to air on the side of caution, and often it costs nothing to get an opinion.

Windows / Doors:

Wooden windows and doors will crack, warp, distort and rot if not properly protected by painting. UPVC doors and windows, although not requiring as much maintenance, still need checking for cracks. With all windows and doors, check the seal where the door frame meets the wall, as cracks can also cause water penetration into your home. Ensure all doors and windows close correctly, but also note adding layers of paint over the years will cause doors not to open and close as well as they once did, and will therefore need adjusting.
It is a good idea to check doors and windows every 6 months, and re-paint every 2-3 years.

Damp Proof Course (DPC):

This is the thin black line that goes around your house, visibly seen on the outside of your property about 150mm (15cm or 6 inch) from the floor. This stops rising damp, and is an integral part of your homes defence against water penetration. Rising damp occurs when water is sucked up by your bricks from the ground, without being stopped. Your DPC stops this. It is important to make sure that nothing obstructs or bridges this line. The most common cause of obstruction is stacking items at the side of your house against the wall, i.e. wood, sand, soil, plants etc.
We advise that you are always mindful of what is leaning against your house externally. Also be aware of adding external rendering, which is another common cause of the DPC being bridged.

Airbricks:

An airbrick is a brick that has perforations through it, and can often be seen at regular intervals around you house (often either the first or second brick from the floor externally). The airbrick allows air to circulate under your internal floor from outside, aiding ventilation, which prevents rot/damp etc. As with your damp proof course, it is important to ensure nothing is covering or blocking the airbrick. Please note those houses with concrete floors will not necessarily have airbricks.

Outside Taps:

This is a real must for winter! Outside taps have a tendency to freeze during the colder months, causing damage to the tap, and possibly resulting in a burst water pipe, which can be costly to repair. The remedy is to turn the tap off by its internal isolating valve, often located on the other side of the wall to the tap. Also, wrap some insulation foam around the tap itself, shielding it from the frost.

Internal

Loft / Attic:

First of all, it is a good idea to board your loft, and install an easy to pull down loft ladder. This not only increases the lofts overall storage capacity, but also allows for good, easy and safe inspection.
When in the loft, first check for any leaks on the floor and around the chimney breast (this also includes any water stains). Leaks could mean, among other things, a loose tile or a potential problem with your flashing.
Check around your water storage tank. Check for leaks, and also check that your overflow pipe (this is usually plastic and is at the top of your tank heading through your wall appearing outside) is connected to your tank, and is not obstructed. This after all is your first line of defence if something goes wrong, and will direct the 80 litres of water safely outside rather than through your ceiling and subsequent floors.
Remember also that your roof space needs ventilation, so ensure that your insulation is not pushed right into the corner of the roof.
It is a good idea to check in the loft every 6 months or again, after high winds.

Bathroom:

With bathrooms, there are a number of visual checks that you can do. For a start check the condition of all your seals. A seal is the white flexible bead that runs around your bath and shower, allowing water to run from your tiles, back into the bath/shower. If the seal is broken, loose, or curling away from the wall or bath, water can freely run down the back of your bath, and eventually make its way through the ceiling and into the room below (often causing water to leak from a ceiling rose/ light fitting).
The grout in a bathroom (between the tiles) should also be checked, especially around wet areas. Gaps in grout can mean water getting behind tiles, causing damp patches, risk of water leaking into other rooms, and tiles coming loose. If you do see gaps, it may be worth re-grouting your tiles.
Toilets also need to be checked over. If you hear any irregular sounds, such as the flush cycle taking longer that it normally does, it’s a good idea to have it checked over, and is often remedied by adjusting the flush valve. Also check taps for leaking (often repaired by replacing a washer).
Please also refer to separate information and advice article on “Condensation: advice on keeping the mould out”. (To follow in December 2010)

Kitchens:

The kitchen is the most well used room in the house, and is subject to the most wear. As with the bathroom, it is important to check your seals at the back of your kitchen worktop and around your sink. Spills need containing, and a gap can often cause water to penetrate down the back, or into your units.
Also check your plumbing. Nine time out of ten, under the sink is where everything comes together, i.e. your water outlets for your dishwasher and washing machine, your isolation valves, and the waste from your sink etc. Make sure that nothing is leaking, and the outlet connections from your washing machine/dishwasher is secured and in place. Also check your plughole is not leaking.
Your appliances need regular maintenance too. Your boiler is often located in the kitchen, so ensure you keep up to date with any service plan the manufacturer of your boiler has to offer or recommends, and always use a Gas Safe engineer if you need any gas work undertaking, MD Build can recommend a few.
For how to keep your worktops maintained, depending on what worktop you have, please see the separate MD Build Information & Advice article on ‘Kitchen worktops: a guide to understanding types and materials’. (To follow in November 2010)

Radiators:

Radiators are the main source of getting heat into your home, and it is important to make sure they are correctly maintained. Firstly check for leaks at the 3 main points of the radiator.

1. The first is at the thermostat valve, located at the bottom of the radiator identifiable by being the biggest dial on the radiator, often having numbers on it for temperature control.
2. The second is around the lockshield valve, located opposite to the thermostat valve.
3. The third is at the bleed valve, which is located at the top of the radiator, and can often be identified by having either a slotted head or small cube coming out of the centre of it (this is what you turn to bleed a radiator).

If you have no leaks, then its time to check for efficiency.
To check whether your radiators are reaching their maximum efficiency, turn your heating system on and start by going around each radiator in your home and touching the top half. If it is noticeably cooler than the bottom half of the radiator, then your system probably needs bleeding. By bleeding your radiators, you are preventing air building up, which causes blockages to the flow of hot water in your system.
You can bleed radiators yourself, and it is not a complicated job. Remember though, any plumbing activity involving pipework is covered by regulations, and if you are in doubt, please call MD Build, who can advise you.

Smoke/Carbon Monoxide Alarms:

Something that often gets overlooked, but is probably the most important item on this list, as it can save your life, is the regular upkeep of any smoke or carbon monoxide alarms you have in your home. Ideally, these alarms should be connected to your main electrical supply with a battery back up so even if the battery dies, you are still protected. If you do only have battery powered alarms, these should be tested once a week, with the battery being replaced at least once a year.
Please visit the link below which details the Government’s advice and guidance on Smoke Alarm safety:

• http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/HomeAndCommunity/InYourHome/FireSafety/DG_071751

We hope that this guide has been useful and informative. If you are unsure, please remember MD Builds advice is always free, so please don’t hesitate to call us.

When it comes to the party wall act, most people panic as like all legislation, it can be difficult to actually find out what you need to do. The good news thought, is that the party wall act is fairly easy to understand once you have some basic information, and people are often surprised on how simple the process is.

Firstly, what is a party wall? A party wall is a wall that is:

• Either part of one building or
• Separates two or more buildings or
• Consists of a ‘party fence wall’ (which is basically a garden wall) or
• A wall that stands wholly on one owners land, but is used by one (or more) owners to separate there buildings.

So what do you need to do if you want to do work on a party wall? Simple, you must inform your neighbours about the work you are going to do on it, and that, in a nutshell, is the Party Wall Act 1996.

Some facts:

• There are no actual formal notices or ‘special forms’ you need to give your neighbours. All you need do is write them a letter.
• In the letter, you must include your name (s) and address, the address of the building to be worked on, a full description of the work you propose to do (you can include plans, but these are not compulsory), and your proposed start date. You must also date your letter, and make a clear statement that the letter you are writing is a notice under the provision of the act (Party Wall Act 1996)
• You can either deliver the letter in person (sometimes the more personal approach is best, as any questions can be answered there and then) or by post. If you don’t know who lives next door, address the notice to the owner, and fix it to a conspicuous part of the premises.
• You do not need to tell the local authority that you have issued a notice

Ok, you’ve wrote your letter, and delivered it to your neighbour, now what?

Some more facts:

• Before you start works, you must have issued your notice 2 months beforehand to your neighbour
• Your neighbour must give written consent for your work to be able to start.
• The adjoining owner may allow works to start earlier, but is not obliged to. If you do want works to start earlier, please get it in writing from your neighbour that they consent.
• The notice is valid for 1 year, so don’t serve the notice to long before you wish to start.

Some timeframes to note:

• The notice must be served 2 months from work commencing
• Your neighbour has 14 days to respond from the point of you issuing them with your notice, failure for them to respond in 14 days means you are in dispute
• A person who receives notice about intended work has 1 month to issue a counter notice detailing what additional work he would like carrying out for their own benefit.

If all goes well, and you have a good relationship with your neighbours, 9 times out of 10 you will get consent from them to start work (possibly earlier if you’re lucky). However if they do dispute the notice you have issued, this is where things get complicated, and you both need to appoint a Surveyor, which if then not resolved, could lead to the case going to County Court.

For more detailed information, please click on the link below, which will take you to the communities and local government explanation booklet on the Party Wall Act 1996. This will give you all the advice you will need, and also gives you some sample letters that can be adapted for your use when writing a notice to your neighbours, as well as discussing notifications for building on boundary lines and digging excavations near adjoining building.

http://www.communities.gov.uk/documents/planningandbuilding/pdf/133214.pdf

Remember, MD BUILD is here to help, and if you do need any advice, or clarification on any of the points above, please contact us. We are more than happy to help.

• Wash your block by hand using a scouring pad or stiff nylon brush. Use an anti-bacterial dish soap (or washing up liquid) ‘kand a small amount of warm water.
• Do not submerge the block. Add a small amount of bleach or vinegar to the water for extra bacteria killing power after chopping bacteria carrying foods such as raw chicken. You can also rub the block with a half a lemon to kill bacteria.
• Thoroughly dry the block after washing.
• Periodically oil the block with butcher block oil or mineral oil. Letting the block dry out because of a lack of oil is the number one cause of problems with the block. You can’t oil your block too much. Oiling will help keep that beautiful sheen. A recommended product to use would be: Parker & Bailey Wooden Ware Cleaner & Conditioner (available from Lakeland) or Rustins Anti-Bacterial Chopping Board Oil (available from Axminster)
• Do not allow liquid to stand on the block for a long period of time, it will stain the block and cause the wood to expand, causing glue joint failure and warp.
• Use a steel scrapper or sandpaper as needed to keep the top smooth and free of deep cuts and food build up, then re-oil the top.
• Work with different areas of the block to help it wear evenly. Do not use a razor sharpened edge on your cleaver it will chip out the wood.
• Do not expose tops to excessive heat, cold or moisture. Never place near a stove or burner. Rayburns and Agas are generally ok as the sides do not generate a lot of heat.

MD Build create handmade oak chopping boards, perfect to finish off your renovated kitchen and if we are fitting your real wood worktop, we can make chopping boards out of your sink and hob cut outs as part of your kitchen renovation.